Cellar Favorite: That’s Amore! 1987 Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino


I make no secret for my affinity of Italian wine, Tuscan wines, and in particular those of Biondi-Santi. My early experiences with wine were my family’s homemade concoctions that were passed off as red wine, and a bottle of 2010 Biondi-Santi Rosso di Montalcino changed everything for me. I now seek out older, back vintage bottles of Biondi-Santi whenever I can. Admittedly, Biondi-Santi is by no means cheap, but the nostalgia I get in the glass has been worth the extra cost when I have cause to celebrate.

With that said, I have been a bit hesitant to seek out current releases from Biondi-Santi because the winemaking patriarch of the family died in 2013, and because the winery was sold a few years ago to a French luxury company. The prices for Biondi-Santi, both the rosso and brunello, have seemed to creep up since the sale. It also remains to be seen if the wines will suffer any quality dips from the sale and loss of an iconic winemaker. With that said, my love for Tenuta Il Greppo grows every time I have a taste of this wonderful sangiovese.

1987 Tenuta Il Greppo Biondi-Santi Brunello di Montalcino This was hardly a memorable year in Montalcino, the Consorzio only rated the vintage with 3 stars. For the mixed results of that year, this 32-year old wine was spectacular. The color in the glass was beautiful, ruby red with only the faintest hints coppering at the bowl. A nose full of crushed cherry, graphite, dried basil and paprika. Smoked meats are present as well, making for an incredibly classic sangiovese nose. On the palate, I found mouth-drying tannins, with some minerality, graphite and chalkiness. There was still a ton of power left in this brunello, with a very, very long finish. This wine felt incredibly young, required food, and probably could use another decade of maturation. It was a special experience to drink this vibrant, young wine and fall in love with Biondi-Santi yet again. Collectible



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